Making of 1/20scale Fulldetail Kit : 312F1 '67

1/20scale Fulldetail Kit : 312F1 '67 の製作工程写真をこちらに公開いたします。

Below is the making of1/20scale Fulldetail Kit : 312F1 '67.






Making of 1/24scale Fulldetail Kit : 908/3 [1971]

1/24scale Fulldetail Kit : 908/3 [1971] の製作工程写真をこちらに公開いたします。

Below is the making of 1/24scale Fulldetail Kit : 908/3 [1971].






Making of 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : 126C2

1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : 126C2の製作工程写真をこちらに公開いたします。

Below is the making of 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : 126C2.






MFHデカールの貼り方/デカール保管上の注意点 How to apply MFH decals / Regarding storage of decals from MFH kits


[ 弊社デカール保管上の注意点 Regarding storage of decals from MFH kits ]


■弊社のデカールを保管する際、複数のデカールの印刷面同士を保護紙無しで直接重ねること、またデカールの印刷面と別のデカールの裏面とを直接触れて重ねる保存は避けてください。
■また、弊社のデカール保護紙を挟んだ状態であっても、重いものをのせたりして圧力をかけて保存するのは避けてください。
■また、極端に湿度が高い環境での保存も避けてください。
■弊社のデカールは柔軟性を持たせるため、印刷面がデリケートです。上記のような保存を行うと、印刷面がダメージを受ける場合があります。
■デカール保護紙をはがした際、表面に保護紙と接触していたことによる微細な跡(ツヤの変化)が残る場合があります。この跡は、多くの場合、水に浸けてモデルに貼った後は、あまり目立たなくなります。クリアコートをした場合は、ほぼ見えなくなります。


– when storing decals, please refrain from stacking decals together/on top of each other without placing protective paper in between decal sheets.
– refrain from applying weight/pressure or sandwiching decals between objects when storing decals.
– refrain from leaving decals in high moisture areas while storing.
The decals used in our kits have a delicate finish in order to preserve flexibility. The surface layer may become damaged over time if the above steps are not followed.
When removing protective paper, sometimes traces will remain on the clear coat surface. In most cases, the trace will stand out less after soaking the decals in water and applying them to the model. If the model receives a clear coat after decals have been placed, the traces will become almost invisible.








[ MFHデカールの貼り方 How to apply MFH decals ]




■動画の補足説明です。
1)デカールを台紙から分離させるとき、水ではなく、90~100度の熱湯を使います。熱湯を使うことによって、デカールが柔らかくなり、破れにくくなります。
2)デカール軟化剤は、市販品がありますが、メーカーによって性質がかなり異なります。ですので、弊社デカールには、アルコールを使用する場合があります。
アルコールは、市販品の燃料用アルコールです。だだし、燃料用アルコールといってもメーカーによってメタノールの濃度、配合成分に違いがある為、必ず不必要なデカールでテストをしてください。強すぎる成分の場合や、強く擦ったりした場合だとデカールや、下地塗料が溶け出す可能性もあります。
3)アルコールを筆で塗布する時、少しづつデカールが軟化していきますので、根気よく時間をかけて馴染ませます。
4)ある程度馴染ませたら、2~3分放置、アルコール分が蒸発して、ふやけ気味のデカールが縮んでシワが目立たなくなっていきます。
5)最後にぬるめのお湯を少し含ませた奇麗な布でデカール面を押さえて、表面を整えます。


■なお、
“1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : Williams FW11B” *(2020年4月までに生産されたキットに同梱されているデカール)
“1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : 126C4”
の一部デカール、
“1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : 312F1”
“1/24scale Fulldetail Kit : 917/30 Ver.D/E (Limited Products)”
“1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : 956 short Ver.D (Limited Products)”
“1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : 956 long Ver.D (Limited Products)”
"P1137 : 1/12scale LINE DECAL for 787B"
のデカールは、
上記方法での貼り方は使えません。
こちらの特殊デカールを貼る際の注意点は、画像に記してありますので、そちらを参照願います。



Extra tips:
1) use boiling water (90~100 degrees Celsius) to remove decal from backing sheet. Not only will this soften decals, it will also make it harder for decals to break.
2) various decal softeners exists on the market for removing wrinkles from decals but vary in strength depending on the maker. In the video we used fuel alcohol (alcohol used as lamp fuel with a mixture of 95% methanol and 5% ethanol) – please note that various alcohol products exist on the market and differ vastly in concentration and dilution. Please test with unneeded decals first to see if the alcohol works with the decals – if too strong the alcohol will burn through the decals. Note that it is not absolutely necessary to use alcohol unless decals are not settling well, or if a 3rd party decal softeners is not functioning well – please try out various market products and find one that suits you best.
3) apply alcohol lightly onto the decal using a brush and the decal will slowly soften. It make take some time for results to show.
4) after brushing down the decal fully, leave decals alone for 2~3 minutes. Decals will shrink as alcohol is evaporated and remove wrinkles from the decal at the same time.
5) use a clean cloth soaked in a bit of warm water and adjust decal as needed. Use light pressure.


In addition:
For CERTAIN decals included in kit:
“1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : Williams FW11B” *(earliar productions of the kit until April 2020)
“1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : 126C4”

For ALL decals included in kit:
“1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : 312F1”
“1/24scale Fulldetail Kit : 917/30 Ver.D/E (Limited Products)”
“1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : 956 short Ver.D (Limited Products)”
“1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : 956 long Ver.D (Limited Products)”
and
“P1137 : 1/12scale LINE DECAL for 787B”

the decal(s) included in the kits mentioned require different handling and applying methods. Please refer to the images attached for specifics instructions.




[ INDEX ] MAKING - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO

MAKING 1 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO
MAKING 2 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO
MAKING 3 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO
MAKING 4 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO
MAKING 5 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO
MAKING 6 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO
MAKING 7 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO
MAKING 8 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO
MAKING 9 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO
MAKING 10 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO
MAKING 11 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO
MAKING 12 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO
MAKING 13 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO
MAKING 14 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO
MAKING 15 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO

MAKING 15 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO

"1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : 日本海軍 戦艦 大和"の製作メイキング、いよいよ最終回です。


前回以降の組み立てに関しては、基本工程と今までの繰り返し的工作になりますので、問題なく進められると思います。

The making of "1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO".
This is the last making of the kit.

Using the techniques that we have discussed before, you should not find any difficulties in assembling the parts after the last update.

甲板は船体にネジ留めするのですが、写真にある砲塔基部のリング状パーツをはめ込んでしっかり甲板と船体の位置を合わせてからネジ留めしてください。
Although the deck requires to be fixed by screws, you need to insert the ring type parts to the turret bases and adjust the position before you using screws to fix the position of the deck.


船体側面のメタルパーツM33の丸印の部分はパーツ成型上の都合で曲がってる場合がありますので、細部パーツを組み込む前に船体としっかり仮組みをして、場合によっては曲げて船体にぴったり合うよう調整してください。
Portion of the ship side part M33 (as shown in the red square in the picture) may be curved and you need to adjust it according the ship body and do temporary assemble before all actions to be taken.


艦載機の仕上げは、ひたすら筆で塗り分けてデカールを貼る作業を丁寧に行うのみです。その際はプロペラとスピナーのパーツを破損・紛失しないようご注意ください。
という訳で..
The painting to the fighters is just using fine paintbrush and applying decals. Only thing you need is to pay attention and paint it carefully.
Also beware the propellers and the spinners to be lost.
After the long works. . .




完成です!
キット完成まで辿り着いた方、お疲れ様でした!これから、という方は存分にこのキットの組み立てを楽しんでください。
完成しましたら当方まで写真をメールで送っていただければHP内ギャラリーに掲載させていただきます。お待ちしております。

The YAMATO is finally completed!!
To all customers:
Thank you for completing the kit! And please enjoy the following kits from Model Factory Hiro!
Also please don’t forget to send us photos of the completed kits! We will put it on the gallery.
Act now!




[ INDEX ]
MAKING - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO


MAKING 14 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO

"1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : 日本海軍 戦艦 大和"の製作メイキングをUPしていきます。
組み立て説明書の順番で進んでいきますので、組む際の参考にしてください。

マストと後部艦橋の組み立てです。

Continuing to the making of "1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO".
You may reference to this “making of” article when you assembling the kit.

This update is about assembling mast and the rear bridge..

マストパーツにエッチングを貼る作業は特に細かいので注意深く行ってください。なかでもE6・E7が細く曲げが少し難しいので、作業中に破損しないようご注意ください。
Pay extra attention when attaching the photo etch parts to the mast. Especially E6 and E7. It is difficult to slightly bend them, please pay extra attention not to break them when processing these two parts.




後部艦橋は今までの基本通りの作業で組めると思います。
The rear bridge is basically similar process to the previous works.


ジブクレーンの組み立てについて、説明書でわかりにくい部分の補足が一点あります。
折り曲げ加工したエッチングE117を台座のC24に挿すのですが、間にE122の穴にもさして二枚貫通させてください。
Point to note in supplement to the manual to the jib crane.
In addition to insert E117 to C24, please also insert E122 in between E117 and C24 as stated in the diagram above.


今回は以上です。終わりが近づいてきました。

続きます。

So this is for the update.

To be continued. . .




MAKING 15 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO

MAKING 13 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO

"1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : 日本海軍 戦艦 大和"の製作メイキングをUPしていきます。
組み立て説明書の順番で進んでいきますので、組む際の参考にしてください。

艦橋と煙突の組み立てです。

Continuing to the making of "1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO".
You may reference to this “making of” article when you assembling the kit.

This update is assembling the bridge and chimney.

艦橋は戦艦の顔ともいうべき部分ですので、丁寧に仕上げるとぐっと完成度が上がります。
The bridge is the symbol of the battleship, so the “level of completion” will be increased if you put extra efforts to the bridge.


ここはとにかく細かいパーツが多いので、パーツの紛失や組み立て中の破損によりいっそうの注意が必要です。
他の注意点としては、エッチングD7が艦橋パーツに対して寸法的にシビアなので、エッチングのゲート処理をしっかり丁寧にやっておく必要あります。
またF5とF2のエッチングは、上部取り付け部であるC49を艦橋に先に付けてから接着すると上手くいきます。
Since the parts for the bridge and chimney are too tiny, beware of missing the parts during assembling.
And the dimension of photo etch D7 is made to be very precise, so pay extra attention when dealing with it.
For assembling part no. F5 and F2, it is better and easier to assemble to have C49 assembled first.


煙突に関しては、煙突上部のエッチングE46の曲げが少し難しいです。
説明書に表記されてるような曲線になるように少しずつ曲げていきます。煙突パーツに何度も設置して曲がり具合とパーツとの隙間をチェックしつつすすめてください。そしてC36で押さえるように設置して接着します。
About the chimney, a little bit difficult when bending E46.
Bend them gently as stated in the manual. Check the bend of every parts when attaching to the chimney. Apply adhesives to C36 to stack on the top.


少し難易度が高い部分ですが、目立つ部分でもありますので丁寧な作業を心がけてください。

続きます。

The chimney also containing some parts that is eye-catching. Prepare and assemble them with extra care..

To be continued. . .




MAKING 14 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO

MAKING 12 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO

"1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : 日本海軍 戦艦 大和"の製作メイキングをUPしていきます。
組み立て説明書の順番で進んでいきますので、組む際の参考にしてください。

今回はレーザー造形機による光造形樹脂パーツについての注意点です。

Continuing to the making of "1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO".
You may reference to this “making of” article when you assembling the kit.

This update is the point to note in processing the laser lithography parts.

光造形樹脂パーツはランナー部を切り離す際に注意が必要です。レジンやプラスチックのように粘りがないので、安易にニッパー等でおおざっぱにカットしようとすると割れる可能性が大きくなります。
そこで、切り離す際の注意点を工程ごとに説明していきます。まず、デザインナイフで不要なランナー部分を少し残すくらいの位置に切り取り用のスジを軽く彫ります。
You need to cut the liner part before applying any process. The material is not similar to those resin parts or plastic parts that are more elastic, it may be easily broken if you just use a nipper to cut it.
We suggest to use a design knife to mark the cut line at the liner part, and leaving a little bit liner to the part


そのスジのラインを目安に精密ニッパーでカットしていきます。無理な力がかからないよう、ランナーに沿うようにニッパーをあててそっと切り出すと失敗が防げます。
Use a fine nipper to cut. Don’t use too much strength and follow the knife marks you have just made to prevent breaking up the parts.


こんな感じにします。キットのロットによっては、ここまでカットされた状態でキットに入っている場合もありますのでご確認くださいませ。
This is how it feels after cutting.
Due to different production lots, some parts may fit to the kit after this cutting process. You may try to have some temporary assembling to confirm.


このあと、目の細かいヤスリで残りのランナーを丁寧に削って成形します。
Remove the remaining liner by using a file. Handle with care.


煙突も作業としては艦橋と同じです。ただ一点、説明書にある通り丸印の部分を削り取る必要があります。
It’s the same when you are dealing with the chimney.You will also need to remove the part as stated in the red circle.


ここはニッパーやナイフを使わず、ヤスリで丁寧に削っていってください。
Use a file directly to remove. handle with care.


他の光造形樹脂パーツ、サーチライトや艦載機等も注意点は同じです。
また、この光造形樹脂パーツは普通に各種模型用塗料(ラッカー系、アクリル系、エナメル系)で直接塗装できます。プライマーやサーフェイサーは吹かなくても大丈夫ですが、下地に塗ってあると塗料の食いつきは良くなります。
ですがサーフェイサーを厚吹きすると繊細なモールドが埋まってしまうので、下地を塗る方はその点ご注意の上薄吹きを心がけてください。

続きます。

The process to other laser lithography parts are similar to the above.
You can apply any paints (lacquer, acrylic, enamel) directly to the parts. It is still OK if you paint the parts directly.
Primer or surfacer paint can be used to paint easier.
However, of you spray the surfacer too thick to the parts will cover the fine details the parts, just a thin surface paint is fine.

To be continued. . .




MAKING 13 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO

MAKING 11 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO

"1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : 日本海軍 戦艦 大和"の製作メイキングをUPしていきます。
組み立て説明書の順番で進んでいきますので、組む際の参考にしてください。

今回は中央構造物の組み立てです。

Continuing to the making of "1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO".
You may reference to this “making of” article when you assembling the kit.

this update is starting to assemble the central part of the battleship.



窓やはしご、ドアといったエッチングパーツはメタルパーツに貼る位置が示されている訳ではありませんので、説明書、もしくはお手持ちの資料を参考に位置を決めて貼っていってください。
There is no markings for the location of the windows and ladder, please refer to the manual and also your own reference materials to determine the locations to attach these photo etch parts.




高角砲はステンレス製の砲身をメタルパーツに穴を開けて挿していくのですが、各砲台すべての砲身の長さや角度をそろえないと見栄えが悪くなりますので、この点に注意をして組み立ててください。
To assemble these high-angle guns, you will be needed to drill holes to the metal parts to insert the barrels. Please pay attention to the depth and the angle of the holes need to be consistant, otherwise the outlooking of these guns will be not good.




他の砲台も細かい作業が続きます。パーツの紛失・破損に充分注意、です。 Pay attention to the tiny parts when assembling other guns and turrets.


ここの工程では、赤い四角で囲った土台パーツの形状の違いに注意が必要です。LとRが刻印されているのでそれで左右の別を見分けてください。また、説明書には三種類の土台が描かれていますが、このなかでM80(M79)はここの工程では使いません。あくまでも形状が似ているパーツのため、間違い防止目的に図で表記してあります。
Pay attention to the parts inside the red area. “L” and “R” marks are marked on them so please don’t mix up.
Also, you may see there are three types of the base in the manual, but we don’t need M79 and M80 here. Since their shape are so similar please separate (or mark) them clearly before assembling.




という訳でこの工程は完了です。

続きます。

Then the central part is finished.

To be continued. . .




MAKING 12 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO

MAKING 10 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO

"1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : 日本海軍 戦艦 大和"の製作メイキングをUPしていきます。
組み立て説明書の順番で進んでいきますので、組む際の参考にしてください。

今回は副砲塔の組み立てです。

Continuing to the making of "1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO".
You may reference to this “making of” article when you assembling the kit.

this update is assembling the sub turrets.

副砲の組み立てに関して、組み立て上の注意点はそれほど多くありません。
Just several point you need to notice when assembling the sub turrets.


第一副砲基部。
We start from the internal parts.
The base of the 1st sub turret.


気をつけるところとしては砲身の組み立てに関してです。
砲身の根元パーツM58に0.5mmピンバイスで穴を開けて真鍮砲身を挿すのですが、M58の穴あけ部分の径が小さく、寸法的にけっこうシビアです。できるだけ、M58穴あけ部分の中心に真っ直ぐズレができるだけ出ないようにゆっくりとピンバイスで穴をあけていってください。ずれると側面に穴が開いたりフチが欠けたりしますので、この工程は慎重に行ってください。
Be careful when assembling the barrels.
Drill 0.5mm holes at the central of parts number M58 and insert the barrels to them. Pay attention in drilling the holes due to the fineness of the parts, and try to drill at the center of the parts to fit the barrel straightly. The holes will comes out from the sides if you tilted. So pay extra attention in doing this.


完成後も触れて壊さないよう保管場所にも注意を、というのは主砲の時と同じです。
Same as the main turrets, keep it safe when you finished assembling the sub turrets.


第二副砲も組み立てに関しては第一副砲と基本的に同じです。

続きます。

The assemble of 2nd sub turret is basically the same as the 1st. Just repeat the process is fine.

To be continued. . .




MAKING 11 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO

MAKING 9 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO

"1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : 日本海軍 戦艦 大和"の製作メイキングをUPしていきます。
組み立て説明書の順番で進んでいきますので、組む際の参考にしてください。

今回は主砲塔の組み立てです。

Continuing to the making of "1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO".
You may reference to this “making of” article when you assembling the kit.

This update will be assembling the main turret.

いよいよ大和が誇る45口径46cm3連装主砲の組み立てに入ります。
Finally the pride of the YAMATO — the 46cm/45 Type 94 naval gun.


まずは砲塔内部から。
メタルパーツM145aとM145bは、形が似ていますがダボの位置が違いますので、説明書をよく見て間違えないようにしてください。
そして写真の丸印部分、エッチングD23とD24は曲げが狭い範囲で連続しているので少し難しいです。以前説明したとおり、広い部分をエッチングベンダーではさんで指で曲げる、を向きを変えて二回繰り返せば上手くいくと思います。
We start from the internal parts.
The shape of M145a and M145b are very similar, but the position of the dowels are different. Refer to the manual to see the differences between them.
Then the ○ highlighted parts in the photo, the bending process to D23 and D24 is little bit difficult.
Just as MAKING 1 shown, use the bender to grab the narrow part and bend it with your finger will be fine.


真鍮製の主砲は、メタルパーツの基部M152にピンバイスで穴を開けて差し込みますが、穴を開ける際はできるだけ中心に、かつ真っ直ぐにあけていってください。三連装なので挿した主砲がひとつでもズレがあると目立つところなので注意が必要です。
The barrels are made of brass, and you need to drill holes to M152 and insert to it. Try to drill it at the center and drill the hole straight. Because the turret has three barrels so if you drill it tilted and it will be seen easily.


砲塔上部の手すりは繊細ですので、曲げ・接着とも注意して作業してください。また手すりは組み立て後に触れてしまい壊してしまうことも多いので、組み立て中の保管場所も安全な場所を確保しておくとその手のアクシデントも防げます。
The handrails at the top is very thin and tiny, so please pay extra attention when bending and attaching them. Also keep it safe after you finished assembling because it will also be broken easily.


第二・第三主砲塔は高射砲台の有無以外は基本的に第一主砲塔と同じです。

続きます。

The second and the third main turret are following the same process except this first main turret has anti-aircraft guns.

To be continued. . .




MAKING 10 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO

MAKING 8 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO

"1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : 日本海軍 戦艦 大和"の製作メイキングをUPしていきます。
組み立て説明書の順番で進んでいきますので、組む際の参考にしてください。

今回は甲板上構造物の組み立てです。

Continuing to the making of "1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO".
You may reference to this “making of” article when you assembling the kit.

This update will be assembling structures to the deck.

甲板上構造物の組み立ては特に難しいところはありません。いままで説明してきた曲げと接着の基本を守っていただければ大丈夫だと思います。
ただ一点、甲板デカールを貼っていますので、その上にくるパーツは接着前に塗装しておく必要があります。ほかの部分のように組んでからグレーを全体に吹く、ということができないのでその点注意が必要です。
It is not so difficult to assemble structures to the deck. Use the techniques of bending and attaching that we have been used so far will be fine.
However, decals has been attached to the deck so you must finish any painting and colouring before. It is not similar to the rest of the kit that can do colouring after assembling.






後部甲板のレールは接着面が狭いので、注意深くゼリー状瞬間接着剤を少しずつ点付けしていってください。
この写真はメイキング用なのでありませんが、もちろん説明書通り歩行帯デカールを貼った上に塗装済みのレールを貼っていく、という順番になります。
The attaching point rails at the rear deck is small. Pay attention when using jelly type adhesives, placing little by little adhesives when attaching the rails.
(this picture is not following the making process, but it is finished by following the instructions from the manual.)


上部構造物を設置すると甲板裏面にゲートやダボが飛び出した状態になりますので、ニッパー等で切り取ってください。

続きます。

Use nipper to remove the excess part from the bottom of the deck.

To be continued. . .




MAKING 9 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO

MAKING 7 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO

"1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : 日本海軍 戦艦 大和"の製作メイキングをUPしていきます。
組み立て説明書の順番で進んでいきますので、組む際の参考にしてください。

今回は、甲板にデカールを貼る工程です。

Continuing to the making of "1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO".
You may reference to this “making of” article when you assembling the kit.

This update will be attaching the decals to the deck.

この工程は説明書の[POINT A]として組み立て上の説明が書かれています。このデカールは通常の水転写式デカールとは貼り方が異なる特殊なものです。ですので特に注意事項として説明書に記してあります。このメイキングでは、その補足説明をしたいと思います。
まずは説明書通りエッチング甲板を塗装します。
You may also following POINT A in the instruction manual to perform the attaching. Since the decal is different from the generic decals that use water, the way to attach this decal has been already stated in the instruction manual.
Please treat this update as the supplement to the manual.
Please get the photo etch of the deck painted first.


次に必要なデカールを余白を残さず切り出します。この作業はいらないデカールの余白をカットする為というより、貼る際の位置あわせの為に必要です。
Then cut the decal out without any white spacing left. To attach the decal precisely, you must cut the decal well.


ここでこのデカールの構成について説明しておきます。
印刷面(数字)が見える面を上にして、上から
(1)透明保護フィルム
(2)反転印刷されたデカール面
(3)薄紙シート
(4)厚めの台紙
という構成になっています。以後、この番号で説明していきます。
まず、(1)透明保護フィルムの端部、前の先端部分と後ろの先端部分のみをはがします。全部はがしてしまわないようにしてください。

Here is the composition of the decal in detail.
Starting from the surface with numbers that you can see :
(1). transparent protection film
(2). reversely printed decal
(3). paper sheet
(4). thick back paper
The following will be using numbers instead of the full names.
First, peel off the tip of the head and tail of (1) only. Do not remove the film right now.


次に、裏側の(4)厚めの台紙の角を少しはがしておきます。こうすることによって甲板に貼った後に台紙がはがしやすくなります。
Then remove the corner only of (4). This action is for the easy removing of (4) when attaching to the deck.


そして、上面の(2)反転印刷されたデカール面を甲板面にのせます。つまり、裏返して(4)厚めの台紙が上になるように甲板に置く、ということです。
ここで甲板に位置をしっかりと合わせる必要があります。先ほど(1)透明保護フィルムの両端部分のみはがした状態ですので、艦首と艦尾方向の甲板にしっかりと位置をあわせてください。
両端の位置が決まったらその部分を少し押さえて密着させます。そして(1)透明保護フィルムをすべてはがし、上から全体を押さえて密着させます。
次に(4)厚めの台紙をゆっくりとはがしていきます。

Then place (2) to the deck, i.e., you will be placing the decal with (4) on the top.
Adjust the position of the decals now. Since the tip of (1) has been removed, please pay attention in adjusting the position.
After you have adjusted the exact position, slightly press to fix the position. Remove (1) and slightly press the decal fix the position.
Then remove (4) slowly.


次に筆で水をつけていきます。この作業でデカールが甲板に完全に密着します。
Use a paintbrush to apply water to the decal. The decal now will be stuck completely to the deck.


(3)薄紙シートをゆっくりとはがします。
Remove (3) slightly.


最後に、柔らかい布等で水分をふき取って完了です。糊が表面に残ってる場合は、水分を含ませた布や綿棒でそっと拭けば取れます。
このデカールの木甲板は少し明るめの色合いで作られています。ですので、しっかりデカールを乾燥させた後、グレー系のエナメル塗料でウォッシングを行うと落ち着いた感じに仕上がります。
なお、説明書にも明記していますが、エナメル塗料以外の塗料をウェザリングに使ったり、クリアコートを行ったりするとデカール面が犯されてしまうので絶対に行わないでください。

続きます。

Absorb excess water with soft cloth.
The attach of decal is completed. If there is some paper remaining on the decal, use cotton bud with water to remove it.
The colouring of this decal has been set to a little bit lighter colour to match the wooden deck. After the decal is completely dried, use enamel paint to perform weathering to have a more natural presentation of the deck.
Please use enamel paint only to perform weathering process only and do not use other paints and clear coating paint. They will harm the decal.

To be continued. . .




MAKING 8 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO

MAKING 6 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO

"1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : 日本海軍 戦艦 大和"の製作メイキングをUPしていきます。
組み立て説明書の順番で進んでいきますので、組む際の参考にしてください。

今回は後部甲板の側面と船首甲板の組み立てです。

Continuing to the making of "1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO".
You may reference to this “making of” article when you assembling the kit.

This update will be assembling the side of the rear deck and the front deck.



後部甲板の側面はエッチングが繊細なので注意してください。順番としては、階段を組んで先に船体に接着し、そのあと斜めトラス材を接着していきます。
接着には今まで説明してきたのと同じように、ゼリー状瞬着を点付けで接着していきます。
Please handle the photo etch of the rear deck with extra care, they are too thin and easily to be broken.
Attach the staircase and then following with the truss structures.
Use jelly type instant adhesives to attach the photo etch.


船首甲板の注意点としては説明書に明記していますが、金属チェーンの基部の組み立てについてです。
チェーンの先端を引っ掛ける”ク”の字のエッチングD46、これをメタルパーツM17に挿します。その際、挿すポイントをM17のちょうど中心にピンバイスで穴を開けてください。大きくずれるとエッチングF37を貼る位置もずれてしまうのでこの点ご注意ください。

続きます。

The front deck photo etch parts should be not causing any problems if you are following the instruction manual. We will be talking more about the chain and the related parts.
First insert the hook like D46 to the metal parts M17. You need to drill a hole to M17 in order to insert the D46 part.
Do not drill the hole too large and this will be affecting you to attach F37 photo etch.

To be continued. . .




MAKING 7 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO

MAKING 5 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO

"1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : 日本海軍 戦艦 大和"の製作メイキングをUPしていきます。
組み立て説明書の順番で進んでいきますので、組む際の参考にしてください。

メイキング五回目です。
内部構造の続きですが、基本的に前回までのユニットと同じような組み立て工程になります。第三のユニットは弾薬格納庫です。

Continuing to the making of "1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO".
You may reference to this “making of” article when you assembling the kit.

The fifth update wil be making the third internal construction, which will be the ammo room.


ここまでの4つのユニットを船体にネジ留めして、ひとまず中央内部構造の完成です!
続いて、後部格納庫の組み立てです。
Fix the four units with the screws and the internal construction is finished!
And then we will continue to the rear hanger.


E53のエッチングは、説明書に明記されている折り曲げガイドラインに沿って曲げていけばいいのですが、曲面もあるので少し難しいところではあります。
The photo etch parts E53 needs to be bent as the manual said, however, not only following to the lines marked to the parts and also please pay attention to the curves.


そこで、E53を曲げる際はB2とB5のエッチング板をガイドにすると正確に曲げることができます。
説明書のラインに沿って大まかに曲げたE53を、B2の該当部分に当てて曲げていきます。B2は厚みがあるので、E53のガイドとして使えると思います。
そしてB5にもはめてみて隙間無く曲げられているかチェックし、船体に仮組みしてみます。
When you are bending E53, you may use B2 and B5 as the guide, so you can bend the correct curves easier.
Because B2 is thick enough you may follow the shape of B2 to bend E53 and also following the lines as the manual instructed.
Then temporary assemble to see if B5 can fit perfectly to the shape you bent.


ボート。
Lifeboats.


甲板面のレールはゼリー状の瞬間接着剤の点付けで。つけすぎると汚くなるので、楊枝やカッターナイフの先端に接着剤をほんの少しすくって付けていきます。
Attach the rails to the deck with jelly type instant adhesives. Beware of the adhesives to be splitting out. You may use toothpicks or the tip of the cutter knife to apply the adhesives little by little.


艦載機は、プロペラとスピナーパーツが細く小さいので曲げたり失くしたりしないようご注意ください。
The propeller and spinners parts of the fighters are too tiny so please pay attention not to bend it or lose it carelessly.


という訳で、格納庫の完成です。

続きます。

The hanger is finished.

To be continued. . .




MAKING 6 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO

MAKING 4 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO

"1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : 日本海軍 戦艦 大和"の製作メイキングをUPしていきます。
組み立て説明書の順番で進んでいきますので、組む際の参考にしてください。

メイキング四回目、内部構造の続きです。
今回は、ボイラー室ユニットの組み立て。

Continuing to the making of "1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO".
You may reference to this “making of” article when you assembling the kit.

We will be continuing to the assembly of the internal construction.
This update is to assemble the boiler room unit.

基本的に前回と同じ工作になりますので、注意点も同じです。エッチングの扱いと仮組み、ですね。
Basically the point you need to care about is the same as the previous update. Careful handling of the photo etch parts and do temporary assemble before applying any adhesives.




階段やはしごは細いので、接着したあとにピンセットや指で触れて壊さないよう、注意してください。
Since the stairs and ladders are very tiny and very easily to be broken, handle it with extra care when you have already applied the adhesives.






第二のユニット、完成です!

次回に続きます。

So this is the completion of the second unit.

To be continued. . .




MAKING 5 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO

MAKING 3 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO

"1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : 日本海軍 戦艦 大和"の製作メイキングをUPしていきます。
組み立て説明書の順番で進んでいきますので、組む際の参考にしてください。

メイキング三回目、いよいよ本キットの重要ポイントのひとつである内部構造を組んでいきます。
船体中央部の内部構造は、おおまかにわけて4つのユニットで構成されています。最初は船尾寄りのユニットから組んでいきます。

Continuing to the making of "1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO".
You may reference to this “making of” article when you assembling the kit.

We will assembling the internal construction, one of the most important of this kit in this article.
The internal construction of the central of the battleship is separated in 4 units in general. We will start the assemble from the stern side.

内部構造は基本、隔壁をエッチングで組んで..
The internal construction walls and floors are made of photo etch parts.


そこにメタルパーツを接着していく作業になります。
After assembled the photo etch parts, fix the position of the metal parts with instant adhesives.


隔壁のエッチングパーツは、ランナー跡をきれいにやすって取り除き、一回目にご紹介したエッチングベンダーで曲げていく作業を丁寧に行えばそれほど難しいことはありません。
Bend the photo etch parts for the separation walls by using the photo etch bender, this step should be not so difficult if you follow the bending lines sculpted on the photo etch parts carefully.








ここは大き目のメタルパーツが付きます。重要な部分ですので、パーツの歪み等がないか、船体とも合わせてみて仮組みチェックをしてください。
Since these large parts are important to the kit, please do carefully temporary assembling with the ship body before applying any adhesives to these large metal parts to prevent tilting.




これで第一ユニットの完成です。

次回に続きます。

The first part is completed.

To be continued. . .




MAKING 4 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO

MAKING 2 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO

"1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : 日本海軍 戦艦 大和"の製作メイキングをUPしていきます。
組み立て説明書の順番で進んでいきますので、組む際の参考にしてください。
第二回目ですが、前回は工具の紹介でしたから、今回が組み立て初回です。まずは船体に舷外電路を貼っていくところからです。

After the introduction to the required tools, starting from this update, we will follow the instruction manual to build the "1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO".
This article will start to assemble the circuit line outside the hull.

舷外電路ですが、これは磁場に感応して爆発する磁気機雷に対抗するために設置されたもので、船体の磁場を打ち消す効果がありました。
The circuit outside the hull is for cancelling the magnetic field generating from the battleship, defending from the attack of the magnetic underwater mine.


この舷外電路はエッチングパーツになっています。組み立ては、船体に瞬間接着剤で接着していきます。
しっかりと位置決めをし曲面になじませたら、ゼリー状の瞬間接着剤を点付けして接着していきます。前回説明した通り、ゼリー状瞬着は流し込みタイプに比べて硬化するまでわずかながら時間がありますので、少しは位置を調整することができます。位置が決まったら、最後に流し込みタイプで接着し、隙間なく船体になじませます。
The circuit is photo etch parts. Use the instant adhesives to attach to the hull.
Because of the curved shape of the hull, it is suggested to use the jelly type instant adhesives since the drying time of jelly type can stay longer for you to have minor adjustment to the position of the circuit.Use the liquid type for finializing the position. The circuit will stick firmly with no spaces left.






本来、船首から船尾までつながっている舷外電路ですが、模型上の見栄えとして、写真の丸印の突起のある部分はあえてエッチングをカットして接着する方法もあります。こうすることによって隙間なく船体になじませることができます。必須の工作ではないですが、ひとつの見せ方の方法としてご紹介しました。
Although the circuit should be linked around the hull, you may cut the photo etch parts (as shown in the red circle marked in the photo) for better looking to the model. This can make you leaving no spaces and gaps in between the circuit and the hull.It is not the only way to attach the circuit, you may do it in your way and treat this as your reference.


スクリュー関係は特に難しいところはないですが、歪みがあると目立つところですので、そのあたりはチェックしつつ組んでいきます。

次回に続きます。

Attaching the screws (propeller) are not so difficult. However, please check them carefully to keep them parallel to the hull. It is too obvious if you attach them even a little bit tilted.

To be continued. . .




MAKING 3 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO

MAKING 1 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO

"1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : 日本海軍 戦艦 大和"の製作メイキングをUPしていきます。
第一回目は、キット製作時に使う工具について。

This is the making guide of "1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO".
We will talk about the tools that are needed to build a excellent model.

カッター、デザインナイフ、ピンセット等は模型用でなくても普通の市販品で問題ありません。(もちろん、高価な専用のものほど精度や使いやすさが上なのは言うまでもありませんが。)
エッチング曲げ用にエッチングベンダー、エッチングランナー部分の仕上げにエッチングヤスリ(写真はタミヤ製)、これらはエッチングの作業に必要です。
それにプラス、エッチングを切り離す為のハサミはあったほうがいいです。エッチング専用のものでなくてもかまいませんが、エッチング用と決めたハサミは他の素材を切るのには使わないようにしてください。切れ味が落ちます。
瞬間接着剤は、サラサラの流し込みタイプのものと、ゼリー状のもの、二種類は必要です。ゼリー状瞬着は流し込みタイプに比べて硬化するまでわずかながら時間がありますので、少しは位置を調整することができます。場合によっては、ゼリー状で位置が決まった後に流し込みタイプを流し込んで隙間なくなじませ接着する、等の使い方もあります。
説明書にはどちらの接着剤が適しているか組み立て工程ごとに記してありますので、それを参考に選んでください。

Ordinary cutters and tweezers sold in the market are both capable to do so, of course they are not so easy to use when compare with those specialized for modeling.
The photo etch bender is used for bending the etching parts, and the file is for shedding the cut edge (Tamiya products are shown in the photos). They are very useful when dealing with the photo etch parts.
In addition to the tools mentioned above, a pair of scissors is good for cutting the photo etch parts from the sheet. The scissors need not be specialized for cutting the photo etch sheet, however, please don’t use the scissors to cut other objects if you have used it for cutting photo etch sheet. It will harm the blades.
Last but not least, you will need instant adhesives in both fluid type and jelly type. The jelly type lets you have a little bit of time to adjust the position after you applied and attached the parts, when compared to the fluid type.
Depends on the situation, usually you may use some jelly type to fix the position first and use the fluid type to stick it firmly.
The instruction manual has suggested which one may be used on which parts, you can reference to the manual for more.


では具体的に見ていきましょう。エッチングベンダーから。写真のような大版のエッチングを曲げる場合、しっかりと曲げ位置を確認してそれに沿ってベンダーではさみます。
Let’s see how the tool actually works.
Starting from the photo etch bender. To bend the photo etch well, confirm to grab the bending line precisely and grab the line firmly. Then you should bend the photo etch well.


そしてしっかりベンダーで押さえながら少しずつ指で曲げていきます。
Bend it slowly and carefully.


折れ線全部をベンダーではさめない小さいエッチングパーツの場合は、写真のように狭い部分をベンダーではさみ、広い部分を指で押さえて曲げていくとうまくいきます。
To bend the small parts like the one shown on the photo, grab the narrow part by the tip of the bender, and bend the main part by your finger.


続いて瞬間接着剤です。流し込みタイプは、ボトルからパーツに直接流すと大量に付いてしまい仕上がりが汚くなってしまいますので、必ずトレイのようなものに少量づつ出して使います。
Then the adhesives. Do not apply the fluid type directly from the bottle, it will harm your kit and very difficult to clean the excess adhesives. You should pour a certain amount to a tray first.


そしてデザインナイフやカッター等の先でほんの少しすくってパーツの隙間に流し込むときれいに接着できます。
Then use something narrow and sharp (like the cutter or design knife)to dip the adhesives to the position you want to apply adhesives.


ゼリー状瞬着はパーツに点付けが基本で、付けすぎないようにしてください。
The jelly type is only applying on the tips of the parts and just a little amount for positioning, so just paying attention not to squeeze too much to the parts is fine.


そして、穴あけ用にピンバイス。ピンバイス本体は複数本あれば作業がはかどります。ドリル刃は各種サイズがセットになった写真のものが一式あると便利です。
The pin vice for drilling tiny holes and spare pin vices are useful and they can speed up your making progress.


基本、パーツの接着には瞬間接着剤があれば問題ないのですが、エッチング同士で強度が必要な部分にはやはりハンダ付けを行ったほうがいい場合もあります。腕に自信がある方は挑戦してみると仕上がりがワンランク上がります。ハンダゴテは普通に市販されている低価格のもので問題ありません。その中でもコテ先端が細いもので電力30Wくらいのものが適しています。
はんだは低融点のものが使いやすいです。下地に塗布するフラックスは、ステンレス用を選びましょう。

次回以降、具体的にキットの組み立て工程にて説明していきます。

Basically, all parts will be fine to stick together using the instant adhesives, however shouldering iron is recommended to be used when dealing with photo etch parts.
The ordinary shouldering iron can be used, but a find shouldering iron head and 30W one is recommended. The shouldering iron which has lower melting temperature is better. For the base please choose the solvent for stainless steel.

Next making will be talking about using these tools in actual work to build the YAMATO.




MAKING2 - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO

Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit [ Index : Day1-14 ]

Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : Day 1
Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : Day 2
Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : Day 3
Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : Day 4
Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : Day 5
Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : Day 6
Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : Day 7
Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : Day 8
Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : Day 9
Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : Day 10
Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : Day 11-12
Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : Day 13
Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : Day 14

Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : Day 14 [ Finish ]

This is the making guide of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit.


Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit :

<< Day 13




After two weeks, the model has been completed.
We often hear that customers have a large backlog of models, and while we are sure everyone would love to take their time with each and every one of them, in most cases that “time” is unavailable (especially for something large like a 1/12 scale model). While this guide was made to present various modeling techniques, it also serves as a guide on how to complete (large) projects quickly without skimping on quality. If you follow the pace of the guide and use time during weekends/night time after work, a model can be finished in about 2 months worth of time.
We hope this guide will be useful for any current/future scale modeling projects you have.



[ Related product ]

K531
1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : 512BB LM
Ver.A [1979 LM Pozzi/JMS Racing #62 / #63]


Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : Day 13

This is the making guide of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit.


Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit :

<< Day 11-12




When cutting out vacuum parts, cut slightly outside of the guide lines. Check the fitting and make necessary adjustments with a file or scissors.
Vacuum parts are usually attached by either being pinned down by rivets, or with the use of adhesives. In the latter case please take precaution: use the minimal amount needed so that you do not stain the vacuum surface. Pick an adhesive that does not erode into the surface and can be wiped away with enamel thinner or zippo oil before it solidifies – we suggest using clear rubber adhesive or clear epoxy. Avoid using adhesives that can cause the surface of the vacuum to turn white, or ones that will damage the paint surface such as plastic adhesives.
Another method (which will take more time) is to mask the underside and paint the border black (or the colour of the surface that the vacuum lands on), and use the painted border as the adhesive base. This will cover up any imperfections that the adhesive may cause.



















Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit :

<< Day 14


Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : Day 11-12

This is the making guide of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit.


Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit :

<< Day 10






























Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit :

<< Day 13


Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : Day 10

This is the making guide of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit.


Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit :

<< Day 9















Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit :

<< Day 11-12


Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : Day 9

This is the making guide of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit.


Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit :

<< Day 8




Start masking the body areas in preparation for painting the window frame/underside/light areas etc. While each section can be painted using a brush carefully, masking and airbrushing as a whole creates a better finish and is a much faster process overall. If you have not clear coated the body (or only have a thin coating) do not use this method as masking tape will possibly damage decals and body paints – in this case please proceed colouring by hand with a brush instead.For masking, use masking tape to cover the entire body, and use a modeling knife to carefully cut away areas such as the window frame/light areas etc. Be sure not to exert too much force and damage the body.


Once coloring has been finished, remove the masking and check on any irregularities in the painting.If urethane clear coat was used earlier for coating, use lacquer modeling paints: the paint will not eat through the coating, and lacquer thinner can be used to remove paint if small adjustments are needed to be made. For lacquer type clear coats, use a water base or enamel base paint. Thinner for these types of paints can be used for adjustments also without damaging the coating itself. In the end, different brands react differently so please test out various combinations ahead of time and find one that suits you best.


Use a brush to add colour to details of other parts if necessary. Painting bolts and rivet molds with silver adds another level of realism to the parts.







Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit :

<< Day 10


Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : Day 8

This is the making guide of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit.


Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit :

<< Day 7




Polishing isn’t necessary, but creates a nice overall shine on the bodywork. It is a rather challenging task and takes more time, so for beginners it is best to try it out on a smaller plastic model at first. Polishing will require a clear coat painted on top of the body colour/decals, and can only be done after the clear coat has completely dried out. See “Making : Day 6” for information regarding clear coat application.
To begin, use 2000 grit sandpaper to remove any irregularities on the body, with focus on large, flatter areas. Be wary of shaving too much for corners and sharp edged areas where the clear coat may not be as thick. If the base coat colour starts showing on the sandpaper it’s a sign that you have gone too deep.


After using sandpaper to a certain degree, you can switch to compound for further polishing. Prepare two to three grades of polish ranging from heavy to fine. Start with heavy grade polish and work towards fine polish for a good shiny finish.


For instructions on how to use compound, follow the directions as noted on the product label. In general take a small amount with a soft towel and polish away at the body. Again, be wary of corners and sharp edges where clear coat may not be as thick. For small gaps or hard to reach areas a cotton swab can be used instead of a towel, but you can also ignore polishing these areas: the clear coat by itself should provide a good shine for these areas, and it will reduce the amount of work needed.


After polishing clean off any shavings remaining on the body. Proceed to mask the body and paint the interior and window frames.




Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit :

<< Day 9


Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : Day 7

This is the making guide of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit.


Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit :

<< Day 6




While waiting for the body to dry, other parts can be prepared at this point. Look carefully through the instruction booklet, and start matching and fitting parts together. Prepare various sizes of drill bits to open up holes in parts according to the size of the stud(s) on the partner part.


Due to production methods, every part has a parting line and roughness that needs to be removed. Use a file or wire brush to fix these parts – the amount of work needed to be put on each part varies depending on whether the part should be coloured, can be seen, or just by personal preference. For parts that need to be polished, you may spend more time polishing the part using compound etc. to give it a better finish. However, for parts to be painted black or cannot be easily seen after the build is complete, can do with a slight amount of filing/wire brush work only. All parts can be fully polished for better presentation, but can take up a lot of time. For this build we have decided to put in more work for the visible parts only in order to shorten the build period. For a 1/12 kit where many parts are involved, this method will give more motivation to finish a build as opposed to having the project drag on endlessly.


Here we split up parts based on what colour they are painted in. All parts (metal, resin, photoetch etc.) are prepared at the same so they can all be painted together at once. A base coat of metal primer is used on metal and etching parts, whereas a base coat of surfacer is used for resin parts. For bright colours such as red, orange, yellow etc. an extra base layer of white is used to make the colours stand out more. In general the parts are all given one coat of paint all at once.


For silver/metalic colour parts, a pin wash will give parts a more realistic finish. We used Tamiya’s Enamel Paint X-19 Smoke for this process. While black is often used, it gives parts a very heavy “shadow” look that may make the final product look very messy. Smoke colour is much lighter and doesn’t darken up too much even if it builds up between deep grooves.


Smoke will give parts a very natural shaded look without the need to do extra work.




Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit :

<< Day 8


Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : Day 6

This is the making guide of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit.


Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit :

<< Day 5




Clear coating can be applied once decals have been dried completely. While it is a rather technical task, clear coating provides a protective layer for decals while giving the body a nice, smooth glossy finish. If the clear coat is too thin it will not be able to level the decal height to the body, nor will it be able to create a continuous smooth gloss over the entire body. Spray until the point just before the paint starts to drip and do so uniformly over the entire body. There are many clear coat paints on the market, so please test various brands and choose based on personal preference (ease of purchase, ease of use, whether polishing will be done post clear coating, the final appearance of the gloss etc.). Our in-house modeler always polishes the body after clear coating when making models so a thicker layer of clear coat is applied using a urethane clear coat paint, giving a nice solid glossy finish in the end.


After clear coat has been applied, leave the body to dry in a dust free environment for a few days. It is especially important to let the coat dry completely if you proceed to do polishing after.







Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit :

<< Day 7


Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : Day 5

This is the making guide of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit.


Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit :

<< Day 4




Apply body decals – use along with decal softener for best results.
As there are many decal softener solutions in the market, each brand will react differently to different decals: some many have no effect on the decal, some may eat through the decal. It is best to test softeners on unused decals to see how the decals will react first. The decals in our kits are usually able to withstand stronger softener solutions. The one used in this example is “GSR Decal Fitter Pro” sold by Goodsmile Racing.


Should any problems arise (gap between decals, decal pattern doesn’t line up well, small cracks and breaks etc.), use a similar colour paint to touch up on such irregularities. After clear coating the paint should not stand out more than the decal itself.


After applying decals, let the model dry for at least 1 day before proceeding to add clear coat.




Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit :

<< Day 6


Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : Day 4

This is the making guide of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit.


Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit :

<< Day 3




Temporarily attach parts to spare metal rods. This will create a makeshift handle for easier painting.


Apply surfacer onto parts. For large scale kits, an airbursh with a large nozzle head/cup along with a high pressure compressor is most efficient.




Allow parts to dry in a dust free environment. After paint has dried, use sandpaper to remove any residual/imperfections left on the parts.


For bright body colours such as red or yellow, spray an underlayer of white on top of surfacer layer before proceeding to apply the main body colour. For the current kit the body colour is blue grey so it will be applied directly onto the surfacer layer.


Different countries will offer different brands of surfacers/paints so we recommend using what is easiest for you to acquire in your respective country. Our company uses a surfacer that comes in a small jar and mixes it with some thinner to thin it out. For any sort of patching work (filling in gaps, damage repair to parts etc), can spray surfacer is used instead.




Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit :

<< Day 5


Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : Day 3

This is the making guide of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit.


Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit :

<< Day 2




Temporarily assemble parts that make the main structure of the model, such as the interior framework, chassis, rollbars, window frames, door etc.


Check for overall fitting of parts and amend any misalignments at this stage. Fitting check is a very important step especially for big models such as those in 1/12 scale.




Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit :

<< Day 4


Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : Day 2

This is the making guide of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit.


Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit :

<< Day 1




While MFH does not use release agents on our resin parts (so there is very little coating on the surface of parts), resin wash (third party item) is used to clean the resin parts to prepare them for coloring.


Sand off any imperfections for the resin parts. Use references on hand as a guide for what the shape should be.


Certain resin parts have “variation” parts. After attaching please use putty to fill the parting lines between parts (use references to confirm if parting line exists or not for such parts).


Use solder to attaching etching and metal parts together – while superglue can also be used, solder will create a strong bond between the parts.


Make sure body cowl and parts around body cowl (such as window frames etc) fit together properly. Resin parts can be bended by a little if a small amount of heat (from a hair dryer etc) is applied to it.




Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit :

<< Day 3


Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : Day 1

This is the making guide of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit.

Before proceeding with building, please make sure all parts are included with the kit. A list of non-metal/resin parts can be found in the instruction booklet.


Make sure all the metal and resin parts required are in the kit. Metal and resin parts lists (for certain kits) can be found on the official MFH website.


While we try to provide as much information as we can in the instructions, we highly recommend customers to search out extra references to use while building.


Once you have everything you need you can start proceeding with building the kit.




[ Extra link ]

- About the tools -



Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit :

<< Day 2


MAKING

MFHデカールの貼り方/デカール保管上の注意点 How to apply MFH decals / Regarding storage of decals from MFH kits


2020.02.08 uploaded
2020.07.06 “Regarding storage of decals from MFH kits” have been uploaded.
Making of MFH 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit


2019.06.18 uploaded
Making of 1/9scale Fulldetail Kit : Brough Superior SS100


2015.12.01 uploaded
Making of 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : 250 GTO [1964]


2015.01.16 uploaded
Making of 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : 126C2


2014.05.26 uploaded
Making of 1/12scale Multi-Material Kit : McLaren MP4-23


2014.02.12 uploaded
Making of 1/24scale Fulldetail Kit : McLaren F1 GTR “Long tail”


2013.07.18 uploaded
Making of 1/24scale Fulldetail Kit : 908/3 [1971]


2013.07.18 uploaded
MAKING - 1/700scale Multi-Material Kit : Btttleship YAMATO


2012.11.23 uploaded
Making of 1/20scale Fulldetail Kit : 312F1 '67


2012.2.18 uploaded

Making of 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : 126C2

1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : 126C2の製作工程写真をこちらに公開いたします。

Below is the making of 1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : 126C2.






ページトップへ